Is it possible to build a T601F without rollcage modification?

[kyletv05]

I've read that apparently some people have managed to build a T601F with modifying or removing standoffs in the rollcage, I'm curious if it is possible to do so.

I have the tools needed to cut the rollcage, but I'm just nervous about cutting the wrong thing or cutting too much off, I haven't seen a good before-and-after comparison of a T601F rollcage. The mod seems pretty easy but of course I'm just really on edge about it.

[m11k]

I've read that apparently some people have managed to build a T601F with modifying or removing standoffs in the rollcage, I'm curious if it is possible to do so.

I have the tools needed to cut the rollcage, but I'm just nervous about cutting the wrong thing or cutting too much off, I haven't seen a good before-and-after comparison of a T601F rollcage. The mod seems pretty easy but of course I'm just really on edge about it.

I've built two frankenpads in the last year, and I didn't use any power tools to do it. All I used was a metal file to file away two of the standoffs. The metal is quite soft and it only took me 20 minutes or so to make the modifications by hand. I didn't need to cut out any part of the frame like I've seen people do, and I also didn't need to remove the modem connector from the new motherboard as I've also seen some people do (although there is not enough room to actually *install* the modem, but that's no big deal). The third picture on this page shows the two standoffs that need to be filed down. I filed them down so that they are basically flush with the surrounding metal. You can hold the new motherboard up by hand to see where it would touch, and to see if you've taken off enough material. You just need to make sure that the metal roll cage isn't touching and accidentally shorting anything on the new motherboard. It was really quite easy, and I didn't need to worry about accidentally cutting off too much with a dremel.

[RealBlackStuff]

I have done about 75 Frankies.
Since nobody uses a modem nowadays, the easiest way is to use a pair of pliers, grab the modem connector above the solder points, then gently wiggle the connector a few mm L/R till it comes off.
For good measure, put a piece of electrician's tape over the empty spot.
I only shorten the red-circled upper-left standoff (in the above mentioned picture) by about 2 mm, using a Dremel.
Then put a piece of electrician's tape over the matching standoff-spot on the motherboard.

[unixed]

You have to reduce the inner ridge only on the standoff others have indicated. If you don't you'll buckle the planar away from the structure frame. If you remove more material you enable buckling the planar towards the structure frame. If you do that you shouldn't insulate it since that again buckles the planar; both the T60 and T61, sans modification, have the planar in contact with the structure frame at that point -- it's so clearly grounded I've never actually verified this assertion.
With the modem region requiring modification you can pick your poison -- I prefer to avoid any planar modifications if possible, whether it be a 14.1" T61, 15.4" T61p or R500 based frankenpad -- but admittedly removing the modem connector is clean and easy.

[m11k]

Here's some photos of the chassis modifications from my recent build: https://imgur.com/a/nn4vqkT

[kyletv05]

You have to reduce the inner ridge only on the standoff others have indicated. If you don't you'll buckle the planar away from the structure frame. If you remove more material you enable buckling the planar towards the structure frame. If you do that you shouldn't insulate it since that again buckles the planar; both the T60 and T61, sans modification, have the planar in contact with the structure frame at that point -- it's so clearly grounded I've never actually verified this assertion.
With the modem region requiring modification you can pick your poison -- I prefer to avoid any planar modifications if possible, whether it be a 14.1" T61, 15.4" T61p or R500 based frankenpad -- but admittedly removing the modem connector is clean and easy.

So I just have to file down the two standoffs? So just sand a bit, and then see if the board fits correctly?

I'm not going to modify the actual board itself. That just doesn't seem right to me, kinda like molesting the board LOL

[m11k]

So I just have to file down the two standoffs? So just sand a bit, and then see if the board fits correctly?

Yes, you just need to file them down. I don't think sandpaper will work though, you'll probably need an actual metal file. That's what I used. Something like this.

[unixed]

If you [WARNING, large pic] look at the T61 planar versus the T60 planar you'll see that the modem connector and the (filled-in) through-hole are shifted to the left and the corresponding T60 through-hole is wider than average. The second difference is the other through-hole midway between the CPU socket and UB battery connector -- it is wider on the T60.
The reason the holes are wider on the T60 planar is that a central portion of the standoff inserts there. So if you file down just that "inner ridge" then the standoff is flush with the T61 planar and there is no guesswork. You then just have to check that the contact is limited only to the immediate region surrounding the hole.
The modem area is similar, but if you only do that it will still interfere with the modem connector, so you have to adjust for that -- shave the standoff sides and bottom edge.
Again, if any contact is limited to that copper region of the (filled) through-hole you're okay.

Preferably use a rotary tool, If you grip the structure frame when filing you may break the fragile section near the fan exhaust on the left if you aren't careful.
Removing the modem connector is easier and you can do it if you're sure you'll never use the modem (not straight forward) or the planar in a T61 shell.

[atagunov]

If you [WARNING, large pic] look at the T61 planar versus the T60 planar

Great photo, many thanks! I have been procrastinating on my Frankie project(s) for a year now so no practical experience yet.. And everybody was talking of this pesky modem connector issue! Now you have finally uncloaked the mystery for me. Information on the 2nd stand-off also greatly appreciated.

Is it about the same when fitting T61 15" widescreen planar into 3:4 15" T60?..

[RealBlackStuff]

That requires an awful lot of extra work, I'd advise against it.

[unixed]

Is it about the same when fitting T61 15" widescreen planar into 3:4 15" T60?..

No, this a much more challenging project but will reward you with 256MB VRAM 128 bit bus NVIDIA Quadro FX 570M graphics if you use the T61p -- much better than the alternative frankenpad graphics options.
You have new problems to solve related to the planar no longer utiliizing a interposer card and old problems to revisit -- a frankenpad (the minimal mod discussed here) runs hotter than if you'd just left the planar in a T61.
Then you want to do that without losing any ultrabay functionality and not being able to visually distinguish it from an unmodified T60p.

[atagunov]

No, this a much more challenging project but will reward you with 256MB VRAM 128 bit bus NVIDIA Quadro FX 570M graphics if you use the T61p -- much better than the alternative frankenpad graphics options

Yeah.. but 08/08, 08/09.. Having a planar that is both 256MB and 08/08 or 08/09 at the same time is an impossible task in 2021 Unless you get the chip replaced..

the planar no longer utiliizing a interposer card ... without losing any ultrabay functionality

Heh that's plain impossible I guess Unless you're fine with DVD sticking out!

I was wondering more in the sense of how many stand-offs need to be filed etc. It's clear Ultrabay is gone and you need a shorter SSD or to mess with SSD in ultrabay + cables. That much is clear. I was wondering about cuts to the frame needed just to fit that 15" widescreen planar into 15" 3:4 body.